Download PDF Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography**Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List“Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times MagazineBarbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Details e-book Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
🗸 Author(s): William Finnegan
🗸 Title: Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
🗸 Rating : 4.6 from 5 stars (3516 reviews)
🗸 ISBN-10: 0143109391
🗸 Languange: English
🗸 Format ebook: PDF, EPUB, Kindle, Audio, HTML and MOBI
🗸 Supported Devices: Android, iOS, PC and Amazon Kindle
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Readers' opinions about Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan
Audi Thornton
Dive into an epic fantasy novel where heroes embark on a perilous quest to save their world from an ancient evil. The world-building is richly detailed, immersing readers in a realm of magic and adventure. With its unforgettable characters and breathtaking action scenes, this book is sure to captivate readers of all ages.
Elsie Moss
This beautifully illustrated cookbook is a culinary journey around the world, showcasing a diverse array of delicious recipes from every corner of the globe. From exotic street food to traditional home-cooked meals, each dish is a celebration of the rich tapestry of global cuisine. With its mouthwatering photographs and easy-to-follow recipes, this book is a must-have for any aspiring chef.
Skyler Shaw
Immerse yourself in the magical world of fairy tales with this enchanting collection of stories from around the world. From classic folklore to lesser-known myths, each tale is a timeless reminder of the power of storytelling. With its beautiful illustrations and captivating narratives, this book is sure to delight readers of all ages.
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